Brits in the desert
Having worked in Saudi Arabia and Oman, I’ve had something of an interest in ‘desert loving Englishmen…’
The video below gives a quick overview, but the podcast further below are where the real detail and nuance lies.
Ladies first…
She spoke better Arabic than Lawrence of Arabia, helped draw the borders of modern-day Iraq, and founded the National Museum arguing that historic relics should be kept in the country of origin. Yet Gertrude Bell is a relatively little-known British Imperialist. Perhaps as she was so ‘of her era’, as opposed to the more self-questioning heroes we might focus on now.
I talk about my journey over the last few weeks, trying to find out more and more about her. I start with the Encyclopedia Britannica, check the Guardian newspaper, and find most biographies really draw on a single source, ‘Queen of the Desert: The Extraordinary Life of Gertrude Bell’ by Georgina Howell. I do check that, and a documentary that accompanied The Young Indiana Jones Chronicles. There is also a 2015 movie starring Nicole Kidman, but honestly I found it hard to get into it, as many do.
If you are interested in her archeological work, rather than her private life and public politics, it would be hard to do better than the hour-long Youtube video, ‘Lisa Cooper | Encounters with Ancient Splendors: Gertrude Bell’. This is a public lecture, which does show some of her remarkable photography. Meanwhile, BBC North East has shared videos about the influence her family had on her regions, Yorkshire and Cumbria.
Throughout this episode, I do try and add in my own experience where I can, having worked in Saudi Arabia and then in Oman. I was able to visit some of the archeological sites out in the desert, and I can quite understand how this could draw someone in as a life-ling interest.
But of course, Lawrence has the (good) movie! But, if, like 28% of respondents to my poll on Instagram, you haven't seen the film, or if, like myself and many people who messaged me, you haven't seen it for a long time, have no fear. This is a NO SPOILERS episode. Although I do talk about his death, this is shown in the first five minutes of the (more than) 3 hour epic movie. Mostly, I focus on the true life story of Thomas Edward Lawrence.
A huge part of why I am so interested in the middle-east is because my father trained the kuwaiti army, 1978-1981.
My parents, in Kuwait - Dad in Kuwaiti Army uniform. This is a sketch I commissioned from a professional artist, who drew it from a very faded photograph.
On Friday 8th December, 1978, my mother flew to Kuwait with my two brothers, then aged 5 and 2¾ . My father was already out there. She wrote a letter to her parents on the following Monday:
"Dearest Mummy & Daddy,
We had an amazingly good flight... in spite of the journey being delayed by an hour and a half. The Chief Stewardess made herself my personal nanny & cared for us so well”. Reading the letter, I am impressed that the Chief Stewardess persuaded mother not only to go to the Jumbo’s lounge, but also "into the cockpit to talk to the pilots". Mother was never keen on flying, despite the evidence of her taking so many flights in her lifetime suggesting the contrary. She rated the Kuwaiti Airlines First Class food as, “only a little less delicious than that at the Royal Roof and countless courses. This was followed by lemon teas. Before the flight we were handed carnations, “in-flight” bootees and hot, scented flannels for refreshments and glasses of fruit juice. The hot, scented flannels were also brought round after lunch ended. There followed a movie which was quite boring, the sunset was really worth seeing though. Several young Arab men entertained and ragged the boys in the Jumbo’s lounge, one doing conjuring tricks. We left the plane laden with presents from the aircrew.”
My mother, first class, Kuwaiti Airlines.
“Frank met u & escorted us through immigration & customs so our bags were not searched, just as well as they had (whoops what a giveaway) in them. The temperature was in the high 70s having been in the 80s during the day. Francis, Douglas & I were all impressed by our 5½ litre Buick. Navy with white roof & seats. It seems large to us but equates to an MGB GT in the States being a 4-seater sports car. It certainly is comfortable & the air conditioning is overpowering.”
Dad, as a British Army Captain, on loan to the Kuwaiti Army.
“I could not begin to describe driving standards in Kuwait, you just would not believe the smashed up cars and incidents I have seen in the last 3 days. There is no problem about keeping the boys in their seat belts though! Both were quick to see the good sense in wearing them & remind us if we forget.”
A fair few smash-ups to be seen.
“Saturday, Frank drove us down to the sea in the morning & we all walked around the souks in the evening. That was when we bought my bangle; and the boys some canvas shoes. The sand was ruining their shoes”.
My mother in the gold souk.
Sunday morning, I spent the morning washing a mountain of clothes & by the time Frank came home from work at 2pm, I felt ghastly. He explained that it was not surprising since the temperature was 86 degrees & the humidity high. However, when the shops opened after siesta we went to the Indian store in Al-Salmiya and bought me the latest Indesit [an Italian washing machine]. It should arrive tomorrow.
Today, I took things more gently and feel fine. This morning Ahmed, the caretaker, cleaned & filled the pool for the boys. Ahmed lives in a tiny bungalow in the yard next to the villa & is retained by the owner. He waters the trees etc. The pool is a tiled, star-shaped one and big enough for a child to swim in.
My parents’ garden in Kuwait.
This evening we went to the nearest co-op (state subsidised supermarket) and bought food. We live between the districts of Al-Salmiya & Rumathiya. It is less European than the Pearl flats but having visited the flats I think I prefer being where we are. At the moment, I am confined with the children to the house & garden all the time Frank is away but once I have a car of my own & my local license I can go out to the beach club and Al-Salmiya shops.
A road near my parents’ home in Kuwait.
My upstairs neighbour, an Italian married to an RAF officer, works during the morning running a kindergarten. Unfortunately, two of the wives work & two others have had babies in the last month so there is no-one to show me around at the moment but there are a few social events coming up so I expect someone will volunteer to rescue me from purdah! It certainly is different.
The tour promises to be interesting and I love the weather as do we all. It is such fun picking lemons off the tree to put into my tea.
Have a good Christmas, unfortunately our boxes do not come until after the holiday.
Much love, Lee!”
